| Amy made a sample from
an 18" (46 cm) square. Top pleats are 1" (2.54 cm) deep and 1" (2.54 cm) apart. Bottom corners use the "Simple 'W'" pleat shown in article. |
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| Front | Back |
| Amy made a sample from
an 18" (46 cm) square. Top pleats are 1" (2.54 cm) deep and 1" (2.54 cm) apart. Bottom corners use the "Simple 'W'" pleat shown in article. |
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| Front | Back |
| Sue used two pleats in each bottom corner. |
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| Sue's finished purse. Note the batik lining. |
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| Candy started from a 14" (36 cm) wide x 16" (41 cm) long (before folding) piece of fabric |
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Here are some comments on the magazine article:
- The article suggests tapestry fabric. If you are using something else, consider stiffening it. If you're using pieced cotton, you could do dense machine quilting for more body.
- Amy recommends starting with a rectangle instead of a square, so that the bag is not as wide in relation to its depth.
- If you cut the lining to fit the outer bag after pleating, you can omit the lining pleats and add a zipper pocket in the lining first.
- Amy recommends using deeper pleats on the bottom corners (or multiple pleats) than the 1" (2.54 cm) pleats she used, and shallower pleats around the top opening.
- Instead of a loop of cording to go around the button, you could use a prairie point, or make a fabric tab with a buttonhole in it.
- Before turning, understitch the lining to the top opening seam allowance.
- Add piping to the bag opening for better turning or a color accent.
- Look at the doubled cording strap in the photo at upper right of the magazine article. The author interlocked one short loop and one long loop.
- The article recommends slipstitching the opening in the lining after turning. Don't bother -- just fold the seam allowances into place and topstitch.
- You could sew your button on top of a tassel.