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These "Tale Spinner" episodes are brought to you courtesy of one of our Canadian friends, Jean Sansum. You can thank her by eMail at
Vol. XV No. 21
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Water plants between the trees |
I would like to explain the origin of the name of "Devil´s Garden" ("Sejtan basce" in Turkish) found on earliest known maps. The rather vague outlines of the lakes shown on the maps drawn in the 17th century refer to the Plitvica region as "Devil´s Garden". At that time the region of Lika was occupied by the Ottomans (Turks), and after the liberation, the Plitvica region became part of the restless and insecure military borderland of the Austrian-Hungarian monarchy. The epithet "devil" appears understandable to a certain extent, although the name does not seem to have been used by the local population. Here´s a legend recorded hundreds of years ago:
"A sultry oppression sat over the fields and mountains for months. People and animals, meadows and gardens yearned for refreshing, gentle rain. The Crna Rijeka (Black River), ordinarily a cheerfully babbling stream, dried up. The people´s prayers and pleading were all in vain, as the skies showed no mercy on them. But then the Black Queen with her glittering entourage appeared in the valley. The people cried for help, asking for water, without which they would all perish. And the Black Queen took pity on them: with great thunder and lighting, heavy rain began to fall in an instant, bringing life to the people and animals, fields and meadows. The rain poured and poured, and the waters began to grow, until they formed the lakes as we see them today."
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Ljiljana and Zvonko in front of 40m-high waterfall |
Water has always enjoyed a mythical quality, especially in the karst area, and it would be difficult to find more reason and justification for such legends and myths anywhere than in the Plitvica region. Today the Plitvica Lakes are located on one of Croatia´s major roads, and instead of a "devil´s garden", Nature here offers another kind of garden - an abundant fantastic hydrographic karst phenomena. The gardener - karst - has created many beautiful scenes in Croatia, but nowhere perhaps as beautiful as at Plitvica. The oldest descriptions and more or less precise maps of the lakes are no more than two hundred years old. The first travel lodge (known locally as the Imperial Lodge) was built in 1862 by the border guards, while the first 28-room hotel was built in 1896.
Scientists visited the area for the first time in the early nineteenth century, and the earliest initiative for establishment of a national park to cover the Lake District was made in 1914. Together with several other valuable areas in Croatia, the lakes were proclaimed a national park in 1928. The law to that effect was rather inadequate, providing for its periodic extension (which was not done), so that the national park was not finally and permanently established until 1949. Thirty years later, in 1979, UNESCO placed the Plitvica Lakes on its World Heritage List, thus recognizing its importance for world culture.
The Plitvica Lakes are situated in eastern Lika, between Mala Kapela and the Licka Pljesevica Mountains. The two largest lakes take up some three-fourths of this area: Kozjak - 81.5 hectares, and Prosce - 68 hectares. The greatest depths have also been recorded in these lakes: 46m in Kozjak and 37m in Prosce. Together with ten smaller lakes between them, these two lakes form the Upper Lakes group. Downstream from Kozjak are the four Lower Lakes. Many large and small cascades connect the lakes, with the difference in height between the highest (Prosce) and the lowest lake (Novakovica Brod) amounting to 135 meters. The greatest height difference is between Galovac and Gradinsko Jezero and the highest inter-lake waterfalls between Galovacki Buk and Prskavci is 25 meters.
The greater part of the lake´s water comes from the Crna and Bijela Rijeka´s streams (Black and White River) which meet, forming the Matica (Mother River) before entering Proscansko Lake. Lake Kozjak receives Rjecica (a rivulet) at its southern edge, and out of it starts the flow of Korana River. A little below the last lake, there is the 72-meter-high waterfall of Plitvica Stream, which plunges into the Korana River with other numerous water cascades at the point called Sastavci (name implies coming together of waters).
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Spraying waterfalls |
Though the Lower Lakes occupy a much smaller area than the Upper Lakes, all natural characteristics of the two groups, especially the landscape features, justify this popularly and scientifically made distinction. The Upper Lakes have dolomite beds (Triassic dolomites), on which surface erosion produces a "normal" relief with the usual stream-made depressions and sloping sides. The terrain around these lakes and parts of the cascade beds are covered with woods.
The Lower Lakes have limestone (Cretaceous) beds and are therefore situated in a canyon cut by a river at a time before the lakes were formed. Though the canyon is not very deep (70 - 80m), its steep sides give the lakes a special atmosphere and picturesque quality. Limestone and dolomites come into contact in Kozjak, as one can see on its different shores, with the western dolomite shore being much more indented. The Upper Lakes are situated in a richly articulated relief, but the canyon of the Lower Lakes is incised into an undulating plateau that continues down with the Korana River.
The fast growth of travertine is found by comparing first measurements at Plitvica with those made a hundred years earlier in 1855. These comparisons show that the lakes and their cascades are very young phenomena. The carbon C-14 isotope dating method shows that the oldest parts of present-day cascade beds are no more than 40,000 years old. It has also been established that there was no travertine formation between 6000 and 22,000 years ago.
Travertine of over 40,000 years has been found in Plitvica, in locations above the present cascades and waterfalls. This "old" travertine represents the remains of earlier barriers, formed under favorable temperature conditions that prevailed here during the interglacial period. Travertine is a soft and porous rock (can be cut with an ax, and is also light, thus was often used as construction material); it erodes easily, and the freezing of water in its pores helped to speed up the crumbling process. Thus the canyon itself is a relief form created during the cold periods.
Particular features of Plitvica are caves in travertine cascade beds. They are, of course, much smaller, but they offer an interesting view of the tissue and structure of travertine. Several such caves are found in the waterfall zone, where cascades come down from Prosce and Ciginovac to Okrugljak, like Kostelceva Cave (16x6x6m) which is found at the upper edge of the Plitvica brook waterfall.
Over three-fourths of the national park area is wooded, and the rest is made up of meadows and fields belonging to the villages and hamlets. The forests are crucially important for the survival of the lakes, since much of the forest substratum is dolomite rock. Without the forests, the rocks would quickly erode on the surface and begin to fill the lakes with debris, which would also damage the fragile cascade beds made of travertine. Such a process has already been responsible for the filling of a small lake at Plitvicki Ljeskovac, which is no longer there, but which older maps still show.
The forests of Plitvica are among the best preserved in Croatia. The main tree varieties are beech, fir, spruce, and Scotch pine. The best preserved natural forest complex is found in the park´s northwestern corner, at Corkova Uvala (Cove), where there are over 80 hectares of almost untouched primeval forest of fir and beech at an altitude of 860 - 1028m.
The present-day settlements of Plitvica are only a little over two hundred years old. There is archaeological evidence of occasional habitations even in prehistoric times, during the Yapod (ornaments of an Illyric tribe) and Roman times. There is also evidence of medieval Croatian administrative structures (zupe = districts) and feudal estates belonging to the Kurjakovic and Frankopan aristocratic families (relics of a hospice, church and tower dating from the 12th and 13th centuries at Gradina). Occasional Turkish raids from the 15th century interrupted the continuity of medieval life. The full- scale Turkish occupation continued throughout the 16th and the greater part of the 17th centuries (until 1689). Even this was not a peaceful period, as Croatian army units launched frequent attacks and offensives reaching deep into the Ottoman-held territory.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plitvice_Lakes - general, very informative.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plitvice_Lakes_incident - Incident in the Croatian Home Defense War 1990 - 1995
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/98/gallery - large pictures collections.
http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/89349914fFdlRk - visitors´ pictures.
ED. NOTE: For Zvonko´s pictures taken in the park, go to http://members.shaw.ca/vjjsansum/or
http://nw-seniors.org/stories/tspinF-21.html
Pat Moore sends this story by an unknown author:
When I was a kid, adults used to bore me to tears with their tedious diatribes about how hard things were when they were growing up.
They walked 25 miles to school every morning, uphill both ways, through year-round blizzards, carrying their younger siblings on their backs to their one-room schoolhouse, where they maintained a straight-A average despite their fulltime after-school job at the local textile mill where they worked for 35 cents an hour just to help keep their family from starving to death!
And I remember promising myself that when I grew up, there was no way I was going to lay that on kids about how hard I had it and how easy they´ve got it!
But now that I´ve reached a ripe old age, I can´t help but look around and notice the youth of today.
You´ve got it so easy! I mean, compared to my childhood, you live in a Utopia! And I hate to say it, but you kids today don´t know how good you´ve got it!
I mean, when I was a kid we didn´t have the Internet. If we wanted to know something, we had to go to the library and look it up ourselves!
And there was no e-mail! We had to actually write somebody a letter, with a pen! And then you had to walk all the way across the street and put it in the mailbox and it would take like a week to get there!
And there were no MP3s or Napsters!
If you wanted music, you had to go to the record store and shop for it yourself! Or we had to wait around all day to tape it off the radio, and the DJ would usually talk over the beginning and mess it all up!
You want to hear about hardship?
We didn´t have fancy stuff like call waiting! If you were on the phone and somebody else called, they got a busy signal! And we didn´t have fancy caller ID display either!
When the phone rang, you had no idea who it was - it could be your boss, your mom, a collections agent - you didn´t know! You just had to pick it up and take your chances!
And we didn´t have any fancy Sony Playstation videogames with high- resolution 3-D graphics! You had to use your imagination! And there were no multiple levels or screens; it was just one screen forever! And you could never win - the game just kept getting harder and faster until you died!
Just like LIFE!
When you went to the movie theater, there was no such thing as stadium seating - all the seats were on the same level. If a tall guy sat in front of you, you watched his hairstyle!
And sure, we had television, but back then that was only a few channels and there was no onscreen menu! You had to use a little book called a TV Guide to find out what was on! And there was no cartoon network! You could only get cartoons on Saturday morning.
We had to wait ALL WEEK!
That´s exactly what I´m talking about! You kids today have got it too easy. You´re spoiled!
You guys wouldn´t last five minutes!
Carol Shoemaker sends the URL for a remarkable painting. She writes: It is unbelievable how much work went into this painting. You can click on any face and instantly get more information and history on that person than you could dig out in a library in three months or google in a week:
http://cliptank.com/PeopleofInfluencePainting.htm
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Carol also suggests this site to which we can all relate, baby boomers or not:
h http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49GavdGWtac
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Marilyn Magid sends the URL for a video of an early Johnny Carson show:
http://www.milkandcookies.com/link/138148/detail/
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Pat Moore forwards a site that measures your memory for faces:
http://www.bbc.co.uk:80/science/humanbody/sleep/tmt/instructions_1.shtml
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Zvonko Springer sends the site for a Snopes report on a college exam question:
http://www.snopes.com/college/exam/barometer.asp
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"Look, I´m not the one with the problem, okay? It´s the world that seems to have a problem with *me*! People take one look at me and go Aargh! Help! Run! A big stupid ugly ogre! They judge me before they even know me." - Shrek
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You can also read current and past issues of these newsletters online at http://members.shaw.ca/vjjsansum/
and at http://www.nw-seniors.org/stories.html