My partner and I went to Cuba to have a nice vacation in the sun and partake in the celebration of the 40th Anniversary of the Revolution. We did a little of both, but found troubles with them as well.
On the "sun" part, I was surprised to find that it can actually get COLD in Cuba! A few nights it was down in the mid- to low-50's. It rained or was cloudy almost half the time we were there, so that was a bit of a let down. We did have a few nice days on the beach, and I got tanned on my face and shins, but that's about it (not that I was really trying to get a tan, however).
On the celebration part, I expected every city (especially Havana, where
we were) to have some sort of organized event to commemorate the 40th
anniversary, but I was wrong. The celebration took place in Santiago de
Cuba, which is on the other end of the island from where we were. That
is where Castro gave his speech. Just like in the United States, the
Cubans celebrate the beginning of the revolution (July 26, or in
the USA, July 4), not the end of it.
We did spend the day with my "family"
that I lived with during my first visit to Cuba for the World Festival of
Youth and Students. We brought them to our hotel for dinner that evening,
which was quite a treat for them indeed--since unfortunately, hotels are
meant for tourists only. This is to cut down on crime and prostitution,
as well as to protect Cubans from being accused of crimes that may occur
while they are in the hotel (since they would most likely be the target
of blame by tourists).
We celebrated New Year's Eve in Cuba by seeing a live band preform at a public square. On our way to the square, we were hit with a bucket of water from a balcony--a tradition in Cuba. Those who want to get rid of problems from the previous year, symbolicly do so by tossing water on passers-by. We felt honored to take part in their tradition. ;-)
Our first week we spent primarily in Havana and the beaches a few miles to the east (Playas del Este). We had excellent accommodations at the Hotel Plaza, which included breakfast and dinner buffets. The trouble is, we wanted to explore areas other than Havana, but it took seven days to get a rental car. Tourism in Cuba has exploded, but the facilities (like having enough cars to rent) haven't kept up. We spent nearly every day asking at 3-6 rental agencies if they had a car. Finally, on the last day in the hotel (our package included seven nights there), the agency in our hotel found us a car. However, it was $99/day with insurance--quite outrageous! We rented it for 4 days and headed to the west to explore in the Viņales region--near Pinar del Rio, about 110 miles west of Havana. There they have really unique mountains that were formed many millions of years ago by volcanoes. Many have caves, and one with a river we went through by boat.
Along the way, we picked up hitch-hikers which helped us understand more of what is happening in Cuba these days. During my visit in 1997, I was so impressed with the giving nature of the Cubans (being given a free taxi ride, genuine helpfulness without expecting money, no begging). Our visit this time showed us a new side of Cuba: begging, hawkers everywhere selling trinkits, being short-changed or overbilled a lot of the time. The influx of tourism has really made its impact on Cuba. Before, people were willing to help without expecting money. Now, being a tourist meant that you were to give money for everything and anything.
There was no concensus on the future of Cuba from the people we talked with. Many were disillusioned or had given up caring. Many were still optimistic that their way (socialism) was doing well for them and their country. Others had become total capitalists and opportunists to squeeze the tourists for every penny they could. It appears that what I had seen in Cuba in 1997, had almost disappeared by the end of 1998, sadly.
Chances are, I won't be going back to Cuba again. Just like my last
visit to Jamaica, I have been soured by the begging and hawking that
has taken over their society, I fear Cuba is following that route as
well, and the alternative to capitalism I once saw in Cuba has started
to resemble every other tourist area I've been in.
